At an elevation of 5,300 feet in the Mule
Mountains, Bisbee is an anomaly: situated at the far
southeast corner of the state so as to be close to the
Mexican border, yet hidden in the mountains with a
moderate climate that makes rose growing a prime
avocation in the town. There's a lot of Old West, mingled
with brick Victorian buildings, and a sense of survival
through a century in which copper mining has become only
a memory of richer days past.
Yet, the town is amazingly well preserved -- with
narrow, winding streets that climb the sides of canyons
and seem best-suited for mountain goats. Two venerable
hotels invoke the rich history of this place, as do such
historical and formerly hysterical sections of Bisbee as
Brewery Gulch and the town's curving Main Street. Bisbee
is a must-see on your tour of southern Arizona. While
Tombstone is mostly a museum-piece -- a re-creation of
the Wild West town where the Clantons met the Earps --
Bisbee is for real, a living example of the early mining
towns of Arizona, the rest of which grew quickly and then
died just as fast.
The Mule Mountains were first a part of Apache
country. Before the 1870s, only a few white prospectors
dared to enter the area, now called Cochise County. But
the discovery of major copper deposits changed all that,
for both the Apache and the European settlers. The army
drove the Apache to less valuable lands, and mining
claims were staked in the mountains by 1877. Phelps Dodge
invested in a large number of claims in 1881, and copper
mining began in earnest. By the turn of the century it
was a company town. Phelps Dodge built the Copper Queen
Hotel, still a grand old hostelry with a wonderful period
bar.
In 1908, most of Main Street was destroyed by fire,
but the town was rebuilt. The new, sturdier construction
of 1910 is still on show today. Mining continued until
1975 when the town turned its attentions to tourism and
retirement living.
Old miners' hostels became refined bed and breakfast
inns. Saloons have been turned into antique shops and art
galleries. Two mines (long closed to mining) have become
tourist attractions with an underground mine tour and
open-pit viewing. The charm of a lost era still remains
in this fascinating little city.
What to See &
Do
A visit to Bisbee is, necessarily, a trip
back in time and the best way to gain an understanding of
the fascinating history of the area is to visit the
several historical museums that chart the development of
mining in the Mule Mountains. The Bisbee Mining and
Historical Museum is located in the former Phelps Dodge
General Office, at 5 Copper Queen Plaza. This is one of
Old Bisbee's most impressive buildings (520-432-7071).
The Historical Society Museum, at 37 Main Street (with
free admission) has displays and artifacts on the pioneer
history of the city. Mulheim House (207 Youngblood) is
perhaps the finest example of nineteenth- century
Victorian architecture in Bisbee (520-432-4461).
Most of the town's antique stores are located along
Main Street, as is the famed One Book Bookstore (38 Main
St.). This is the writing and sales office of Walter
Swan, who wrote Me 'n Henry, a nostalgic book about a
young boy and his older brother growing up on an Arizona
homestead. Swan opened his store to sell the book and his
unique storefront operation quickly became a national
institution. He wrote more books and opened the store
next door to sell them -- The Other Book Bookstore. Swan
is in his store on most days to swap stories and
autograph copies of Me 'n Henry. His other books include
The Old Timer's Cookbook and a book of stories for
children.
Two of Bisbee's former mines should be on your list of
things to see. The Lavender Mine is a large open
pit. The main attraction is the Queen Mine, the
former Phelps Dodge operation, which now has a guided
tour of an underground slope at 118 Arizona Street
(520-432-2071). The tour office is located south of the
Old Town, off the U.S. 80 interchange. Tours start daily
at 9 and 10:30 am, at noon, and at 2 and 3:30 pm. A van
tour leaves the Queen Mine site for a tour of surface
mines and the historic district at 10:30 am, noon, and
3:30 pm.
Then, take a walking tour of Brewery Gulch and
the rest of the historic district, following a map which
is available at the office of the chamber of commerce.
Gardeners will enjoy the displays of desert plants at
Arizona Cactus & Succulent Research Inc.,
located 6 miles south of town (8 Mulberry Lane, at Bisbee
Junction). The botanical garden contains more than 750
varieties of cacti and other plants of the high desert.
The non profit center has an extensive library with
photographs and research materials on cacti and
succulents. There is a series of greenhouses, and classes
on landscaping with desert plants are given on a frequent
basis. For information, phone (520) 432-7040.
There are two old hotels that offer a great glimpse of
the 1900-1910 period and, even if you're not staying in
one of them, I recommend at least a visit. The Bisbee
Grand Hotel was built in 1906, promptly burned to the
ground, and was immediately rebuilt. Located on Main
Street, it was restored to its original Victorian style
in 1986. There is a saloon, theater, and Ladies Parlor on
the ground floor, with rooms upstairs (nine rooms and two
suites). It operates as a B&B. The Copper Queen
Hotel, which overlooks Main Street from its perch
around the corner from Brewery Gulch, was the mining
company hotel, built in 1902. The saloon is just the
place for a glass of Bisbee's fine hometown beer (Dave's
Electric Beer) or stronger libations. Fine dining is
offered in the Dining Room. Rooms start at about $65 (for
two). For details on these and other Bisbee
accommodations, see the next
Bisbee page. The town is filled with fine bed and
breakfast homes and inns, several of them former miners'
boarding houses. There are several conventional motels
and four RV parks -- one with its own golf course.
