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California's Lost Coast

Some of California's most impressive, rugged and unspoiled landscape is in what is called the "Lost Coast." The area extends from the northwest edge of Mendocino County to just south of Ferndale in Humboldt County. Much of the area is preserved in the King Range Conservation Area and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park which lies on the coast at the southern end of the region.

This area is so remote that there is only one organized community: Shelter Cove. The rest of the conservation area is virtually uninhabited with the King Mountains sealing it off from the east. Hiking, fishing, sea-watching and camping are the reasons people come to visit the Lost Coast. Those who take the trouble to venture into this area are impressed with rugged beauty and the truly spectacular vistas along the coastline. A 16-mile trail, in several sections, takes hikers along the coast.

Getting There

There are three ways to drive into the Lost Coast. From the south, Usal Road branches off Highway 1, three miles north of the hamlet and ghost town of Rockport. This road is unsigned and unpaved. For the first six miles, Usal Road winds and rises to more than 1,000 feet and then descends to the Usal Beach Campsite.

From the east and Highway 101, take either the Garberville or Redway exits, drive through Redway and turn west on Briceland Road. After 12 miles of driving, turn on the left fork to the hamlet of Whitethorn. One mile past Whitethorn the pavement ends but you can continue on the dirt road for another 3.5 miles to the Four Corners, a junction. Left is Usal Rd. Right is a road climbing into the mountains. Drive straight ahead and you come -- in another 3.5 miles -- to the Sinkyone Wilderness State Park Visitor Center. This last part of the road may be impassable during winter months. The state park headquarters has trail maps and camp site information. There are camping areas at Needle Rock near the visitor center where trails lead to the beach and at the Jones Beach site. There are drive-in campsites four miles south of Needle Rock -- at Bear Harbor. This is where the road ends and the Lost Coast Trail begins. For advance information, write to the California Dept. of Parks & Recreation, Eel River District, P.O. Box 100, Weott, CA 95571.

The third access route is from the north, but this route is recommended only for intrepid drivers with 4-wheel-drive or high-clearance vehicles, and then only during the dry summer and fall months. Mattole Road runs south from the Victorian town of Ferndale, past Cape Mendocino and on toward the only community on the Lost Coast.

Shelter Cove

Shelter Cove is the only community on this 100-mile stretch of pristine wilderness. Founded around 1855 as a seaport to service the farms and interior Humboldt communities, Shelter Cove became a fishing village in 1928, when the San Francisco Fish Company bought the pier and surrounding land and started landing salmon for shipping to San Francisco. The Machi family bought the company's 40 acres and set up their own fish house. Anglers come to the cove for many reasons: deep sea fishing for salmon, ling, rock cod, red & black snapper, abalone, crab and other shellfish, as well as surf-fishing for ocean perch and rock fish. There's a sheltered boat ramp in the cove.

Shelter Cove Road provides access to the King Range Conservation Area. For current information on the trail network, contact the BLM offices in Arcata or Ukiah. The Chemise Mountain Trail is reached via Shelter Cove Rd. and Chemise Rd. Park at the Wailaki Recreation Site. The upper trail (3 miles round trip) crosses over Bear Creek and ascends 1/4 mile along a ridgetop to the top of Chemise Mtn. (2,596 feet). The trail wanders down the slope, through an old-growth Douglas fir forest and ends 1/4 mile from the beach, stopped by landslides. The walk back is a stiff climb.

The King Crest Trail is reached by taking Shelter Cove Road to Horse Mountain Road Drive continung another seven miles and turning on Saddle Mountain Road for another seven miles to the trailhead. The path leads along a ridge, through a madrone forest and up through several switchbacks. At a junction, the right fork leads to Maple Camp and water. The left fork leads to the summit and magnificent views -- a five-mile round trip.

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Lost Coast - California

Shelter Cove Motor Inn (707-986-7521) on Wave Drive, has ocean-front units with a view ($$).

Shelter Cove Beachcomber Inn (707-986-7733) has units with brass beds, fireplaces, stoves and kitchens on Shelter Cove Rd. ($$).

Mario's Marina (707-986-7432) has a nine-unit motel in addition to trailer units with kitchens beside the marina that services sport fishermen with gas, supplies and bait ($$).

Camping

People with trailers and RVs head for the Shelter Cove Campground (707-986-7474) which has 100 serviced sites.

Those who prefer to camp in public campgrounds should head for Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, or to a more primitive campsite in the King Range Wilderness.

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