Appearing more like
a resort on the Cote d'Azure than an American city,
Santa Barbara is an amazing delight that is largely
unappreciated as a destination for vacationers.
A lush, semi-tropical community set between
the Santa Inez mountains and the Pacific, the unique
ambience of this small city is the result of several
serendipitous factors. It is part of the only section of
the whole North American Pacific Coast which runs from
east to west, giving the entire city a southerly
exposure. Expansive beaches line the shore and the sea,
and the mountains behind Santa Barbara provide a moderate
climate.
The vagaries of nature that include the
beneficial climate also brought a devastating earthquake
that destroyed much of downtown Santa Barbara in 1925.
The disaster resulted in a planned reconstruction program
bringing a coordinated architecture which is a remarkable
mixture of Spanish, central Mediterranean and North
African elements.
Things to See & Do
The presence of a university and a thriving
cultural life provide a level of arts activity which is
unusual for a small city and it is graced with parks,
gardens and public sculpture which enhance the
architectural scheme. All of these elements have made the
city not only a desired home for the upper crust --
starting with the early days of the film industry -- but
also a superb vacation center. Several scenic drives are
available, including sideroads that take you to the
fast-growing wine district north and east of Santa
Barbara.
Pinot Noir, the wine made famous by the
movie Sideways, is available at many of the
regional wineries, in addition to other fine varietals. A
"Sideways" Tour map is abailable from the Santa Barbara
Visitor Center.
Pismo Beach and the dunes recreation
area are 30 minutes north via Highway 101. Channel
Islands National Park is located just offshore,
accessible from Santa Barbara or Ventura.
It helps if you have a lot of money to
enjoy the posh resorts but with the availability of state
beaches with campgrounds and modest motels in the area,
Santa Barbara is accessible to all. It is definitely on
our list of the ten best places to visit along the
Pacific Coast.
Beaches
Nine beaches line the Pacific waterfront
between Carpinteria (east of Santa Barbara) and Goleta,
to the west. The most popular one is East Beach,
near downtown Santa Barbara on Cabrillo Blvd. between
Palm Park and the Bird Refuge. Visitors may rent beach
chairs, umbrellas, boogie boards and volleyballs at the
clubhouse. There's a bike path and several picnic areas
are conveniently located along the beach.
West Beach lies between Stearn's
Wharf and the harbor, also on Cabrillo Blvd. with
Ambassador Park across the road. Surfers usually
head for Leadbetter Beach, in a shallow cove with
a nicely landscaped picnic area, at Shoreline Drive and
Loma Alta Dr. Also known for surfing is Rincon
Beach in Carpinteria at Bates Road and Hwy. 101.
Opposite the famed Biltmore Hotel is
Butterfly Beach. This is a narrow strip of sand
with a fine view of the mountains at the end of Butterfly
Lane. One of the best bird-watching spots along the
shoreline is Isle Vista Beach, in Santa Barbara on
Del Playa Dr. at Camino Corto.
Downtown
A walking tour -- following a procession of
red tiles -- leads you past the historic downtown area's
prime architecture, shopping and eating places. This is
the area that was mostly destroyed by the 1925 earthquake
and which now defines the "Santa Barbara Look."
Highlights of the walking tour (we suggest starting on
State Street at De La Guerra) include: the
Arlington and Granada theaters, old movie palaces now
featuring live performances of music and drama; the
Museum of Art; the County Courthouse (a
Spanish/Moorish gem); El Presidio, the site of the
original Spanish fort; Presidio Gardens, on the
site of the old parade grounds; the Lobrero
Theatre; the Santa Barbara Historical Museum; more
than a handful of historical adobe structures; and El
Paseo, a distinctive Spanish-style shopping arcade
with boutiques and restaurants. The Moreton Bay Fig
Tree, a humongous native of Australia with a span of
160 feet, is seen at Chapala Street and Hwy. 101, south
of downtown near the Amtrak train station.
Mission Santa Barbara
The tenth of the missions established by
the Spanish Franciscans in California during the late
1700s, this mission overlooks the city from its mountain
site on Mission Canyon Road. Its twin bell towers and
arched walkway are reflected in a pool. Visitors may take
a self-guided tour through the building, which still
functions as a busy parish church. Highlights of the tour
include splendid gardens, courtyards, a chapel and
cemetery. The mission is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.An
extremely modest admission fee is charged.
Stearn's Wharf
A fire destroyed several of the buildings
on this historic wharf on the night of November 18, 1998.
One of the buildings that burned was the famous Moby Dick
Restaurant. The Harbor Restaurant was saved from the
flames. The long wharf is at the foot of State Street,
between East and West Beaches. Built in 1872, it is the
oldest operating wharf on the West Coast, and has long
been a favorite strolling and dining place for Santa
Barbara residents and visitors.
Yacht Harbor
The harbor is a mooring place for pleasure
craft as well as home to a sizeable working fleet. Off
West Cabrillo Blvd., the breakwater provides a half-mile
path for walking, parking places, several restaurants,
marine supply stores and souvenir shops. Rental and
charter boats are found at the north end of the harbor.
Botanic Garden
Located on the mountainside at 1212 Mission
Canyon Road, the garden was established in 1926 and has
grown to include five miles of pathways through areas
that feature California's native plants, from tall
redwoods to prickly cacti. The garden is divided into
major sections: the Sierra Nevada, southern mountains,
deserts and off-shore islands.
For serious botanists, there is a library
and research center. The gift shop has plants for sale
plus plant books and souvenirs. Guided tours lasting
about one hour are available daily. Admission for adults
is $3 ($2 for seniors).
A Driving Tour
Many of Santa Barbara's major attractions
are located on a scenic drive that can be driven in an
hour but could involve a full day of sight-seeing. The
best way to start the tour is to drive to the corner of
Coast Village Road and Olive Mill Rd. in Montecito (east
of downtown Santa Barbara) and follow the scenic drive
signs along Coast Village Rd., which soon turns into
Cabrillo Blvd., leading beside the beaches, turning into
Shoreline Drive and then palm-lined Las Palmas Drive
(where you'll see the super-exclusive Hope Ranch estate
homes). The tour then leads east along the mountainside
via De La Vina, Los Olivos (to the mission) and then
continues on Alameda Padre Serra Rd. You will return to
the starting point in Montecito via Alston Road and Olive
Mill Road.
Where to Eat
Eating is good in Santa Barbara and
environs: on the beaches, in the historic downtown and in
aeries perched on the mountainside.
Downtown
Joe's, on State Street, features the
oldest bar in the city with an eclectic informal menu
that includes basic Italian and American dishes and
sandwiches. Three cafes in El Paseo, the Spanish
shopping area, stand out. El Paseo Restaurant
offers traditional Mexican dishes in an outdoor
courtyard; Old Towne Cafe features outstanding
soups, sandwiches and other dishes; the intimate Wine
Cask serves modern California Cuisine ($$ to $$$).
At the top of the State Street shopping
area is Downey's, a fine restaurant with a country
French ambience and fine dining in the grand style. Above
the downtown area, on the mountainside, is the wonderful
El Encanto Hotel, which has a restaurant
overlooking the city and ocean, with classic French
cuisine and excellent service.
Beside the Ocean
The Harbor Restaurant on Stearn's
Wharf features fresh seafood and fine views of the ocean
and mountains.
Beachside Bar and Grill, on Goleta
Beach, also features seafood (mostly grilled), a large
fireplace and a glassed-in dining patio. Sea Cove
(at Leadbetter Beach), Brophy Brothers (upstairs
at the Yacht Harbor) and East Beach Grill (under
the Cabrillo Arts Pavilion at East Beach) are all
informal and inexpensive seafood places with good food
and local atmosphere.
Santa Barbara Camping
Good camping is available at four nearby
state beaches (Carpinteria, El Capitan, Gaviota &
Refugio) and four county parks (Cachuma Lake, El Capitan
Ranch, Jalama Beach & Rincon Beach).
There are two private RV parks, El Patio
RV Park, 4040 Calle Real (805-687-7614) and
Sunrise RV Park, 516 S. Salinas
(805-966-9954).
