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What
to See and Do
| Museums
| Where
to Stay
The
haunting artistic temperament of Taos is best seen in two
centers of activity. In the middle of downtown Taos is
the Plaza -- 200 years old and Spanish in character. The
Plaza is not large in comparison to other New Mexico
plazas, but is has a quiet, serene ambience that
complements the more recent cultural developments that
have made this small community a magnet for visitors from
around the world.
North
of the modern town is a much more historic seat of
culture -- the oldest inhabited community in North
America. Taos Pueblo is not only an amazing
architectural marvel; it is a reminder that our modern
cultural practices and history -- derived from European
development -- are often rendered insignificant against
the backdrop of the Pueblo Indians of the Southwest and
the series of ancestor people (the Fremont, Mogollon,
Anasazi and others) who developed the indigenous culture
of North America, long before the Europeans
arrived.
At
the time the Spanish explored the area and Hernando de
Alvarado had come north to Taos in 1540, the
Pueblo Indians had been living here for centuries.
Together, the Indians and the Spanish occupied the area,
farming the valley until the Pueblo Uprising of
1680, when the Indian pueblos united to drive out the
Spanish. The Taos Indians were conquered in 1696 by Don
Diego de Vargas, and the Spanish returned.
The
legacies of both cultures are apparent throughout Taos,
with the trademark Spanish/adobe architecture and
festivals celebrating both cultures taking place
year-round.
Taos
lies 7,000 feet above sea level, nestled against the
Sangre de Cristo Range of the Rocky Mountains. The
air is crisp and summer skies are clear. The town is
situated in the wide valley of the Rio Grande. The river
flows south, through a dramatic gorge, a few miles to the
west of the town.
The
enchanting appeal of Taos is, first, in its shaded
streets and buildings. You'll see a succession of old
adobes with traditional walled courtyards, interspersed
with the more modern quasi-adobe style of architecture,
which mixes Spanish colonial touches with thick-walled
adobe construction. The streets are lined with small
boutiques and art galleries, cafes and crafts studios.
All are within a short walk from each other in this city
that has remained -- in its feel -- a small
village.
Taos
is a center for the arts, commemorated for all time by
such ground-breaking Western artists as Georgia O'Keeffe
and Ernest Blumenschein. Art museums and commercial
galleries display the work of present-day Taos artists
and other Southwest arts and crafts notables.
How
to Get There
The
scenic route between Santa Fe, Espanola, and Taos is the
historic "High Road to Taos," the original wagon road
between the two Spanish colonial centers. U.S. Highway 84
and New Mexico Route 68 offer a more direct and speedier
drive from Santa Fe. Our recommendation is to take U.S.
Highway 84 as far as Pojoaque (a pueblo town) or drive a
little farther north to Espanola, and follow the scenic
drive to complete the route via the old High Road.
What
to See & Do
Taos
Plaza
Located
just west of the main street (Hwy. 64), the Plaza is the
gathering place for the town, with original Spanish
buildings (mostly homes) now converted to restaurants and
shops.
You'll
see chile ristras hanging in front of stores, the old
Hotel La Fonda (related to but much less fancy and a lot
more quirky than Santa Fe's La Fonda), and art
galleries.
Taos
Pueblo
The
pueblo is north of the main town via Hwy. 64 (turn onto
the right-hand fork). Unlike many pueblos, this is not a
ruin. It has been and is now occupied by families who
live here year-round, and many others who have modern
homes in the pueblo lands come here for ceremonial
occasions. Some of the ground-floor "apartments" are now
Indian bake shops and crafts stores. The two large,
five-level structures have been here since about ad
1000.
The
pueblo community has turned their apartment complex into
something of a prime tourist attraction and commercial
enterprise. Expect to pay when you drive your car into
the pueblo parking lot. Expect to pay again if you wish
to use your camera. Visit the bake shops and buy Indian
bread and biscuits, and stroll through the crafts stores.
There's an amazing collection of Indian art and
memorabilia available here. The old Catholic mission
church is open to the public, but the pueblo buildings
are off-limits, except for the shops. Other than on a few
ceremonial occasions (funerals, etc.) the pueblo is open
every day.
Ranchos
de Taos
This
village south of the main town has some fine restaurants
and galleries, but the main attraction is St. Francis of
Assisi Mission Church, a wonderful example of early
Spanish mission architecture dating back to its
completion in 1755. The interior features many art
objects.
Museums
& Historic Homes
The
Millicent Rogers Museum (4 miles north of Taos on
N.M. Route 3) houses an outstanding collection of Indian
art and crafts including the work of potter Maria
Martînez in addition to Spanish-colonial art,
furnishings, and artifacts. The museum overlooks the Rio
Grande Valley. If there is one museum to visit when
you're in the Taos area, this is the one.
The
Harwood Foundation Museum is a cultural research
center featuring public and research libraries as well as
a gallery that features paintings by famous artists of
the Southwest in addition to Spanish folk art.
Ernest
Blumenschein Home and Museum (13 Ledoux Street) is a
national historic landmark and the home of the seminal
Western artist who co-founded the Taos Society of
Artists. The house was built in 1790 and has antique
furnishings; it serves as a showcase for local
artists.
Governor
Bent House was home to New Mexico's first American
governor, from 1846. The old adobe house features a
collection of Bent family artifacts and other local
historical items. Kit Carson, the famous frontiersman,
lived and died in Taos. His home, open to the public, is
east of downtown on Kit Carson Street. The Hacienda de
Don Antonio Severino Martinez is two miles west of town
on N.M. Route 240. This Spanish hacienda has period
furnishings and decor. A classic colonial home, it was
built with security in mind and contains two enclosed
courtyards. It's situated on the banks of the Rio
Pueblo.
Attractions
Near Taos
Taos
Ski Valley
With
Mt. Wheeler looming overhead, this is New Mexico's best
downhill ski area. It also serves as a base for outdoor
activity in the summer with hiking trails fanning out
through the Carson National Forest. The vertical drop is
2,612 feet, and the longest run is a long 5.2 miles. At
the base are condo accommodations, restaurants, and bars.
To get there, drive north from Taos on N.M. Route 3 and
turn right (east) onto N.M. Route 150. The ski area is
19.5 miles from downtown Taos.
Angel
Fire
Another
noted ski area is located 26 miles east of Taos -- via
N.M. Route 68 and then south for 4 miles on N.M. Route
75. With a vertical drop of 2,180 feet, runs up to 3.5
miles, and a cross-country ski center, Angel Fire offers
just about everything (including golf when the snow has
disappeared).
Side
Trips from Taos
We
highly recommend the circle route around the
"Enchanted Circle," leading through the Carson
National Forest, past the D. H. Lawrence Memorial to the
rustic resort town of Red River, and then to Eagle Nest
before returning to Taos. This drive is very scenic, as
is the longer Valle Vidal Circle route, which
includes much of the Enchanted Circle. For details, look
at our on-line magazine
feature
on the scenic drive, and visit the forest ranger station
in Taos.
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