Texas
Hill Country offers more than a dozen scenic state parks.
Three are located within a short drive of downtown
Austin. For general parks information, call 800-792-1112
McKinney
Falls State Park is located inside the Austin city
limits, at 5808 McKinney Falls Parkway, in south Austin.
The 640-acre park is named for Thomas F. McKinney, who
came to the area in the early 1820s as one of Stephen
Austin's first 300 colonists. McKinney built his
impressive home, stone fences, and the first flour mill
in the area with slave labor. The ruins of the homestead
are on view. The park offers camping, hiking, cycling,
picnicking and fishing. Swimming is permitted in Onion
Creek, when creek conditions are right. Tours are
provided for a fee. Park facilities include screened
shelters with bunk beds (bring your own air mattresses),
campsites with water (some with electricity), and walk-in
sites beside the creek. An interpretive trail leads .75
mile along the creek. An additional 3.7 miles of walking
and cycling trails are available. The interpretive center
contains exhibits and an audio-visual room, plus an
outdoor amphitheater. The park is located 13 miles
southeast of the State Capitol building, off U.S. Highway
183. Take McKinney Falls Parkway south to the park
entrance. Camping reservations: (512) 389-8900
Inks
Lake State Park lies on the reservoir, part of the
Lower Colorado River system. The park is located nine
miles west of historic Burnet, via Texas Highway 29 and
Park Road 4. Deer, quail, and many songbirds are resident
in the park. Recreational activities include camping,
backpacking, hiking, golf, swimming at the beach,
boating, water skiing, scuba diving, and fishing (bass,
crappie, catfish). Facilities include campsites with
water and electricity, restrooms with showers,
backcountry campsites (1.5 miles from the center of the
park), picnic areas, a nine-hole golf course, and an
amphitheater. the Texas Park Store rents canoes and
paddle boats year-round, and sells basic
groceries&emdash;a boon to campers. For camping
reservations, call (512) 389-8900.
John
J. Stokes San Marcos River State Park is an
undeveloped piece of land across the San Marcos River
from the A.E. Wood State Fish Hatchery, operated by the
City of San Marcos. The site, also known as Thompson's
Island, provides a quiet day of canoeing, boating, and
fishing. While there are no picnic tables (or restrooms),
there are places along the river to spread a blanket for
a picnic. San Marcos is 30 miles south of Austin, via
Interstate 35, the route to San Antonio.Exit the freeway
at U.S. Highway 80 and turn right on River Road. Drive
one mile and turn left onto County Road to reach the
island.
Scenic
Sidetrip
For
a fine day trip in the hills west of the city, take the
Mopac Loop Expressway (Loop 1) to Bee Cave Road. Drive
west on Bee Cave Road to Texas Highway 360 (Capital of
Texas Highway) and turn right. The route leads through
chalky limestone hills. There's an overlook 1.5 miles
along this highway, with views of the downtown skyline.
Continue north on TX 360, crossing the Pennybacker Bridge
over Lake Austin. Take Bull Creek Road (FM 2222) and
drive west for several miles until you reach TX 620. Turn
left and proceed one mile to Commanche Trail. Turn right
and you'll pass the Oasis Cantina Del Lago, a fine
restaurant overlooking Lake Travis. Continue on TX 620
and cross Mansfield Dam. A visit to Leftwitch Winery is
possible at this point. Drive another seven miles until
you reach TX Highway 71. To return to Austin, turn left
on TX 71 and left on Bee Cave Road.
If
you have time, turn right on TX 71 and drive 1.5 miles to
Hamilton Pool Road. Turn left and drive 13 miles to
Hamilton Pool, a distinctive natural place where you'll
see a collapsed limestone grotto, with a waterfall and
pool. Another four miles down the road is West Cave
Preserve, a 30-acre natural area with wildflower meadows
and stands of ashe juniper and oak. This is a sanctuary
for the golden-cheeked warbler and many other birds.
Weather permitting, tours are available on Saturdays and
Sundays at 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. To return to
Austin, retrace the route to TX 71. Turn left and take TX
71 to Bee Cave Road.
Where
to Eat
Threadgills
If
we were to recommend only one restaurant to visit during
your stay in Austin, it would have to be Threadgill's.
Located at 6416 North Lamar, this is a landmark
institution that survived prohibition as a gas station
and bootleg joint, run by Kenneth Threadgill and bought
by Eddie Wilson in the 1970s. What used to be a small
diner is now a large, informal cafe with several rooms,
plus a store and museum where you can buy take-out food,
Threadgill's special seasonings, frozen food, and
Threadgills memorabelia. But it's the food which is the
attraction here: grilled, country-style, bronzed (dipped
in Cajun spices), Southwestern-style served with chipotle
cream sauce and smoked corn relish, and -- above all --
chicken fried. I've been cooking my own chicken-fried
steak since finding Threadhill's recipe, courtesy of Jane
and Michael Stern and Gourmet Magazine, a recipe you'll
also find in Eddie Wilson's own Threadgill's Cookbook
(Longstreet Press, 1996). Using the double-dipped eggwash
process, the chicken fried steaks are wonderfully tender,
with a distinctive crisp batter coating. Served with
mashed potatoes, a savory cream sauce, cornbread, yeast
rolls, biscuits, and a choice of vegetable plates, this
is comfort food heaven. Humorist Roy Blount said "Eddie
Wilson is the Proust of Supper," and you too will gain a
new respect for :"everyday food" at Threadgills. The
decor is "eclectic Americana," the walls covered with
Texas artifacts. For information on open hours, call the
restaurant at (512) 451-5440. You can also visit a second
Threadgills in Austin.
Manuels
Tex-Mex
cuisine is served in a moderately upscale scene at
Manuel's, at 310 Congress, downtown. The food is
consistantly fine, presenting a southwestern twist to
dishes like mole enchiladas and chile rellenos. There is
a bar, and the premises is open Sunday through Thursday
from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from
11 a.m. to 10:45 p.m., with appetisers served until
midnight, (512) 472-7555).
Poke-e-Jo's
Smokehouse
(1603 West 5th Street, 1202-C Interstate 35, and 9828
Great Hills Trail)
This small chain offers three locations for traditional
Texas barbecue. Pork loin, sausages, pork ribs, and
brisket are served up with side dishes including corjn on
the cob casseroles, and fried okra. All locations serve
beer and wine. Call (512) 388-7578 for open hours.
Bitter
End
is a warehouse converted into a large, busy brewpub.
At 311 Colorado, the restaurant offers several of its own
brews, along with a selection of appetizers and entrees
which are several cuts above usual pub fare. The space is
separated into a bar and dining spaces, opening for lunch
from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and re-opening for dinner at 5:30
p.m. (Friday and Saturday), and at 6 p.m. on other
days.
Sullivan's
Steakhouse
at 300 Colorado, offers the quintessential club-style
steakhouse environment, with dark wood, historical boxng
photos on the wall, and the most tender beef around. The
bar opens at 4:30 p.m., with dinner served from 5:30 to
11 p.m. (daily except Sunday). For reservations, call
(512) 495-6504.
The
Oasis
For
food with a view, drive to the shore of Lake Travis and
The Oasis. Located 400 feet above the lake at 6550
Commanche Trail, the Oasis is a hotel (private cottages)
and restaurant with dining rooms and a scenic outdoor
dining area. Steak, seafood, and Mexican specialities
highlight a wide-ranging menu. Lunch is served Monday
through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., with Saturday and
Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is served
from 5 p.m.
