Lake Crescent
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Lying at the northern edge of
the Olympics, this beautiful natural lake has an
elevation of 579 feet and is almost nine miles
long. The lake flows into the Lyre River, which
empties into the Strait of Juan de Fuca, about
five miles beyond its western end.
South of Lake Crescent,
Aurora Ridge serves as the divide between the
Lyre and Soleduck valleys. Beyond the eastern
end of the lake, Mount Storm King dominates the
skyline, rising to an elevation of 4,580
feet.
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While almost all of the Olympic park lands
have been left in their wild state, without the kinds of
visitor facilities found in many popular national parks,
Lake Crescent has facilities which, fortunately, blend
into the lovely landscape. Lake Crescent Lodge is
an historic building nestled amongst the hemlocks and
firs, beside the lake. The operation offers rooms in the
main lodge or in cottages with fireplaces. Nearby are two
additional complexes: Marymere Motor Lodge and
Storm King Motor Lodge, providing standard
motel-style units, with the same woodsy, lakeside
ambiance.
The lodge is a wonderful building,
constructed before the national park was created. The
fireplace cottages were built in 1937, at a time when
President Franklin D. Roosevelt was touring the area,
considering the idea of a national park. There's a huge
stone fireplace in the lodge lobby. The dining room has a
fine view of the lake. The food is mainly Northwestern
cuisine, accompanied by an extensive wine list. The
season extends from Late April through October. The lodge
provides box lunches for those wishing to take day hikes,
or to pursue other activities in the area. Rowboats may
be rented. The lake attracts anglers who go after the
famous Beardslee trout. For information and reservations,
call (360) 928-3211.
Crescent Lodge is just off Highway 101,
west of the park ranger station. Piedmont Road leads
along the north shore of the lake, from the junction with
the Olympic Highway (101) 15.9 miles west of Port
Angeles. It climbs through the forest and then drops to
lake level and into the national park. It provides access
to another (smaller) tourist operation, Log Cabin
Resort.
The origins of this rustic resort go back
to 1895. The cabins were built in 1928, and have lake or
mountain views. Each cabin has a private bathroom with a
tub or shower. The camping log cabins are minimal
facilities with two double beds. You can bring your own
bedding or rent bedding from the management. There is no
indoor plumbing in these cabins which accommodate up to
four persons. A picnic table and campfire barrel are
found outside each building. The resort offers rooms in
the lodge, and the separate chalet. The chalet rooms
include private bathrooms with showers, plus a
kitchenette. Bring your own cooking and eating utensils.
The lodge has rooms with queen beds and private bathrooms
with showers. Trailer sites are also available, with
restrooms, showers, and laundry. For information and
reservations, call (360) 928-3325.
Boundary Creek Road branches to the
left, crossing the Lyre River, entering the national
forest and ending at the parking area for the Spruce
Railroad Trail. Piedmont Road continues to the right,
crossing State Route 112 and ending at the shore of Juan
de Fuca Strait at the village of Salt Creek (camping).
The paddle wheeler Storm King
provides four 90-minute lake cruises each day from the
last weekend in May to the end of October. Cruise tours
depart (by bus) from the Storm King General Store, on
Highway 101. Departures are at 10 am, noon, 2 pm and 4
pm, and is it necessary to be at the general store 30
minutes before departure time. For information, call
(360) 452-4520.
Day Hikes near Lake
Crescent
Marymere Falls is a spectacular 90-foot
waterfall, one mile from Lake Crescent. A trail leads
through the lush old-growth forest, with wheelchairs able
to get to the 3/4 mile point where there is the Barnes
Creek Overlook. The trailhead is near the Storm King
Ranger Station.
Mount Storm King Trail
This popular trail climbs about two-thirds
of the way up the slope of Mount Storm King. To access
the trail, park at the Storm King Ranger Station, and
take the Marymere Falls Trail. One-third mile from the
trailhead, the mountain trail branches off, climbing
through a Douglas-fir forest. The trail then has a series
of switchbacks with a succession of viewpoints, offering
fine views of Lake Crescent, the Barnes Creek Valley, and
Aurora Ridge. As the trail climbs the mountain, it runs
along a steep hogback, with more overlooks. You will
reach a sign warning that hikers should not proceed
further.
Only experienced hikers should venture on
the trail beyond this point. It becomes extremely steep,
reaching an overlook with an even more stupendous view of
the surrounding territory. Climbing to the peak, beyond
the overlook, is an activity designed for only serious,
talented climbers, and climbing gear is required, as well
as backcountry registration. The volcanic scree (crumbled
rock) makes it a difficult task.
Spruce Railroad Trail
This is an easy trail, following the
roadbed of the old Spruce Railroad, along the north shore
of Lake Crescent. The railroad was built during World War
I, when spruce lumber was required for building
airplanes. This is a trail which may be hiked in both
summer and winter. It is below the usual snow level, at
an elevation of about 600 feet. The trailhead is located
at the end of Boundary Creek Road (see above). The trail
ascends from near the end of the lake, turning onto a
former logging road before descending to the Spruce
Railroad bed. It then hugs the shore, offering fine views
of Mount Storm King and other peaks. Avoiding a collapsed
tunnel, the trail crosses some cliffs, climbing around
Devil's Point (more great views), crossing a cove on a
bridge. The trail returns shortly to the railroad route,
passing basalt cliffs and avoiding a second tunnel. Lake
Crescent Lodge is seen on the other side of the lake,
only a half-mile away. In its final moments, the trail
leaves the railroad grade to descend to its end at North
Shore Road. This is a four-mile, one-way hike.
Fairholm Campground Trail
The campground is located at the western
end of the lake, off Highway 101. This nature trail leads
from the campground entrance, taking a loop route and
returning to a point 200 yards from the trailhead. The
trail runs near the highway but the thick Douglas-fir
forest muffles the traffic sounds. The length of the loop
is .7 mile.
Sol Duc Hot
Springs
The Sold Duc River is one of the longest
rivers on the peninsula, with its source high in the
northwestern corner of the mountains. It runs below the
mountains, from the north, winding through several
valleys and joining the Bogachiel River to form the
Quillayute before emptying into the Pacific near Forks.
It has a tortured course, through several chasms with
stretches of very white water, and through lowland
forests of Douglas-fir and western hemlock. The river is
also called Soleduc, and you'll see signs spelled either
way.
Highway 101 and Soleduc River Road provide
access to Sol Duc Hot Springs. The springs were long used
by Native Americans who regarded these springs and the
Olympic Hot Springs as the tears of two dragons who
fought a battle on the nearby peaks. The duel is said to
have ended with no victor and the dragons both wept in
shame. These are the only two thermal springs in the
national park. Michael Earles, a timber baron, bought the
springs in 1910 and built a resort hotel. The hotel was
destroyed by fire in 1916 and was not rebuilt. There is a
small tourist operation at the hot springs, with food
service.
Soleduck River Road runs along the park
boundary, around Aurora Ridge, then follows the river
through an old-growth Douglas-fir forest. Seven miles
from Highway 101, the road provides views of the Salmon
Cascades, the scene of a salmon run in spawning seasons.
The road then leads to a campground with tent and trailer
sites. This is a popular family camping place during the
summer and fall months. The hot pools and campground are
closed from October until spring returns. The Soleduck
Trail is found at the end of the road, one mile beyond
the campground.
Day Hikes at Sol Duc Hot Springs
The trail to Sol Duc Falls leads not quite
a mile from the end of Sol Duc River Road, a walk through
a dense forest.
Mink Lake Trail begins at the Sol Duc Hot
Springs resort and climbs 1,400 feet in about 2.5 miles,
through the forest to the lake, which is stocked with
eastern brook and lake trout. This is a lake in the final
stages of life. A portion of it is choked with grasses
and other vegetation. Birds, including loons, are
plentiful in this marshy environment. The trail continues
above Mink Lake, to the 4.3-mile mark where it intersects
with the Bogachiel (backcountry) Trail, at Little Divide.
There is a small meadow at this point, offering good
views of nearby peaks, and several varieties of summer
wildflowers.
Ancient Groves Nature Trail offers a
half-mile loop through old-growth forest, connecting two
roadside turnouts. For safety's sake, we suggest
returning on the trail to your starting point, rather
than risk being in the path of traffic.
Hoh Rain Forest
What was once a long glacier which flowed
all the way from the Olympic peaks to the Pacific Ocean
is now a long river valley, where the Hoh River tumbles
to meet the ocean at the Hoh Indian Reservation. It
begins by receiving the outflow of the Hoh Glacier,
gathering water from creeks and smaller rivers, with the
milky water of five additional glaciers (White, Blue,
Black, Ice River, and Hubert). The South Fork is the
river's largest tributary.
The river and its tributaries run through
what is considered the finest temperate rain forest in
the world. The Hoh River Road provides access to the Hoh
Valley and to all but one of the major attractions of the
rain forest. The road parallels the river from Highway
101 to the Hoh Ranger Station and park information
center. The road passes through ranch lands and
second growth forest at first, with little enclaves of
rain forest in which you'll find the Willoughby Creek
Campground and Minnie Peterson Campground and
Picnic Area. Minnie Peterson ran pack trains into the
mountains for many years. At the five-mile mark, the
Peak 6 Adventure Store is a source of campers'
supplies, including rain gear for the rain forest. Its
main business is organizing hiking, climbing and biking
tours. Owned by the pioneer Peterson family, the shop is
on the historic Peterson Ranch. The Westward Hoh
Resort (5.5 miles) has a grocery store, gasoline, and
a guided river trip service.
The road enters the national park and it is
here that the rain forest really appears, with huge, tall
spruces and firs, and lacy vine maple underneath. You'll
pass a giant Sitka spruce, named in honor of Preston
Macy, the first superintendent of Olympic National Park.
The tree is 270 feet tall, and about 700 years old.
The road ends at the Hoh Ranger Station and
Visitor Center, the point of entry for several short and
long trails in the rain forest. The information center
has a supply of maps and books, in addition to
interpretive sheets and other standard park
literature.
The South Fork of the Hoh River is
accessed by other roads: Honor Camp Road, and Road 1000.
The trailhead area, called the Bert Cole Forest, is
outside the national park boundaries, on state land.
Honor Camp Road joins Highway 101, 7 miles south of the
Hoh River Road intersection. Road 1000 leads from Honor
Camp Road to the trailhead for the South Fork Trail. This
is a narrow valley with steep walls, without access to
the higher mountain slopes. However, it a paradise for
anglers who find lots of salmon and steelhead during the
seasonal runs, and a lush rain forest inside the national
park boundary, with huge spruces, western hemlock and a
lesser number of Douglas-fir. This is an excellent place
to observe animal life.
The main Hoh Valley is much wider, and
leads to high elevations in the Bailey Range and beyond.
The Hoh Trail is one of the park's three or four major
backcountry trails, and the main route to Mount
Olympus.
The area close to the ranger station is a
wonderland of dripping vegetation, with a variety of bird
and animal life.
Hoh Rain Forest Day Hikes
Hall of Mosses Nature Trail
This is one of two short trails near the
Ranger Station and Visitor Center, a loop route crossing
Tarft Creek and climbing slightly to bench land with
Douglas-firs at first, and then through a spruce-hemlock
forest before reaching the Hall of Mosses. Here, the
big-leaf maples are covered with moss, in a
cathedral-like setting. In addition to moss, the trees
play host to ferns and selaginella. In the days before
the park brought people to see this amazing sight, the
tree trunks were covered with mosses to a thickness of
six inches or more. Human visitors, not elk, have rubbed
most of the moss off the lower parts of the trunks, the
cost of allowing us into this once-pristine setting. The
trail continues through the spruce forest, thick with
vine maple, returning to the trailhead. The total loop is
only three-quarters of a mile.
Spruce Nature Trail
This trail offers a 1.25-mile round-trip
walk between the Hoh Trail and the river. Elk and deer
are often seen close to the river, and the vegetation is
a prime example of the thickest type of rain forest.
There is also a paved mini-trail, suitable for
wheelchairs.
Hoh Trail
While hikers use this trail to access the
Olympic high country, a short walk along the first
section of the trail offers a wonderful trip through the
rain forest. The trail begins at the ranger station,
crossing Taft Creek, and runs through the forest on a
level route through prime rain forest, with the
understory covered with mosses, ferns, liverworts,
lichens, plus masses of vine maple, salmonberries and red
elder. Everything you could wish for in a forest is found
here. The growth of new trees from the fallen logs of
this forest is particularly profuse. In the first 1.5
mile, you'll pass through stands of alder and big-leaf
maples, and into a forest area where Douglas-fir
predominates. The path continues on the level bench to a
viewpoint where Mt. Tom can be seen (at 1.5 miles). If
you wish to walk farther, the trail then descends to the
Hoh River and climbs again to cross two rushing creeks
until meeting the turnoff to the Mt. Tom Trail. This
point is at the 2.8-mile mark. Hiking this far, and then
returning to the ranger station, provides a fine day hike
with little exertion.
