Northern
Oasis
Eagle
Plains is not a plain! This is a large, rolling region of
hills nestled between the Ogilvie and Richardson mountain
ranges. The area is at the alpine level and is mostly
covered with stunted black spruce. Much of the ground has
permafrost close to the surface and is covered with
mosses, lichens, and short shrubs. The Eagle River, from
which the area gets its name, wanders through the plains,
fed by smaller creeks. Newcomers to the highway often
consider Eagle Plains to be a boring, monotonous part of
the trip. We would urge you to think
otherwise.
The
views from the Dempster throughout its crossing of Eagle
Plains are awe-inspiring. The tundra requires close
examination to see the delicate alpine vegetation. In
late August and early September the land is ablaze with
color as the alpine plants turn into brilliant shades of
crimson while the willows and birches along the creeks
and the Eagle River turn a vivid yellow. Then, the tundra
turns brown, in its wait for winter and the blowing snow
to appear.
In
all of our northern travels, one view remains the most
memorable: the Richardson Mountains as seen from
Eagle Plains. In late October the Richardsons were topped
with fresh snow, enhancing the soft, sculptured look of
the mountain peaks. A magnificent sunset bathed the
mountains, ending with subtle pinks as the sun went down.
Some geologists say that the Richardsons are the
northernmost peaks of the Rocky Mountains. The matter is
still in scientific dispute.
There's
an extensive border of fireweed along the highway at KM
364 (mile 226). The territorial flower, it flourishes
throughout the Yukon. At KM 369 (mile 229) there's a good
view of the Eagle River as it meanders through the
plains. Several oxbow lakes created by the winding river
can be seen from this point. Wildlife, including beavers,
muskrats, and many birds, is abundant here.
Eagle
Plains Hotel is a unique oasis in the middle of
nowhere, and a logical place to stay overnight during
your Dempster Highway trip. It is almost exactly halfway
between Dawson City and Inuvik. This is a completely
self-contained complex with electrical generator and
water hauled by tanker truck from the Eagle River. The
complex includes a gas station, government office, staff
quarters, a campground, and a modern motel with dining
room and lounge. For information and reservations,
telephone (867) 993-2453 (99-EAGLE), or write to Eagle
Plains Hotel, Bag Service 2735, Whitehorse, Yukon Y1A
3V5. The hotel is open year-round.
Be
sure to see several sets of historical photos on the
walls of the hotel and lounge. These collections
illustrating the stories of the Mad Trapper, the early
R.C.M.P. dogsled patrols and the great reindeer drive are
well worth seeing for an understanding of the special
history of the northern Yukon. If it is not possible to
continue a drive along the Dempster to the Mackenzie
Delta, then by all means drive a few miles to the Arctic
Circle Crossing. You'll never forgive yourself if you
don't.
