With California temperatures soaring into the hundreds this summer, and my patience with the turgid air getting thin, I suggested a two-hour drive to the High Sierra, to try out a hot spring park that I had often wanted to sample. Having lived in Northern California for eight years, I was ashamed of myself that I had never been to Grover Hot Springs. Now, that wasn't because I don't care about hot springs. I've soaked in hot spring pools from Arizona to Alaska, and care more about hot springs than I can express. It's just that when something is almost in your back yard, you tend to disregard it.

So we took the plunge (literally) after taking State Route 88, through the California foothills, and up into the rocky ridges of the Sierra Nevada. Highway 88 is one of the great drives in the West, and my favorite in California. The road climbs slowly through a digger pine and manzanita woodland, and then into Ponderosa Pine country, before crossing the divide above 8,000 feet, at Carson Pass. From there, it's a half-hour drive through the Hope Valley to Markleeville and Grover Hot Springs State Park.

Meadow at Grover Hot Springs State Park
photo by James Hoagland

We checked out several campgrounds in the Hope Valley, so named by immigrant Mormons who had difficulty getting through the Sierra on their way to the California Gold Fields. Faith and Charity valleys are nearby.

Hope Valley Campground (Forest Service) sits beside the West Fork of the Carson River, below Carson Pass. Turtle ??? Campground (Alpine County) is along Highway 89, half way between the 88/89 junction and Markleeville. We chose a more obscure campground, four miles off the highway) in a BLM recreation site on Indian Creek Reservoir. The landscape was typical of the Eastern Sierra -- sagebrush and quite arid, with pine trees on the higher slopes surrounding the reservoir.

Campsites here are easy to find, even on weekends. There's a trailer and RV area, but we had out tent and chose a fine 2-pad campsite overlooking the lake. So sooner than we had pitched the tent, we took off for the hot springs, after reaching Markleeville.

This is a tiny town, with a hundred or so residents, and the seat of Alpine County -- the least populated county in the state. It was a mining area in the early 1900s, and now devotes itself to tourism -- at least during the non-snow months. In the winter, most of the roads to Markleeville are cut off. The turnoff to the state park is in the center of town, close to the visitor information center, operated by the county and the Forest Service.

The park is at the end of the access road, with a good campground for RVs and tenters near the park entrance. Drive down the meadow and you're at the pools.

The Hot Pool - photo by James Hoagland

The entrance fee for the pool is $5 per adult. There's no other fee to enter the park, except for the daily fees to use the picnic area and campgrounds. Hiking trails lead from beyond the pool area. The hot water flows down the hillside, into the large hot pool (capacity 50).

Weather on top of the Sierra is unpredictable, and having driven through a small thunderstorm, we weren't surprised to see the pool closed when we arrived. We were joined in the wait by a couple who had driven from Las Vegas -- a full-day's drive -- just to soak in the pool, only to find it closed. But not for long. The storm cloud passed quickly, and the dozen people waiting began their soak. The water is at 104 degrees, and a cold swimming pool sits nearby for quick, cooling plunges. The mineral water is devoid of sulphur, making it a pleasant experience. Regulars claim curative properties to the water, as did the native Indians who first discovered the springs.

That was the first of our two visits to Grover Hot Springs in July. We repeated the experience two weeks later. The second trip was made in much cooler weather, giving the pool area a nicely-eerie atmosphere as steam rose from the water and wafted over the meadow.

Grover HS State Park is not a place for a quick in-and-out soak and run.

Where to Camp

The campground in Grover Hot Springs State Park offers trailer/RV and tent sites, in a shaded setting. Reservations are avail;able through Park Net.

I also recommend the BLM recreation site at Indian Creek Reservoir, four miles east of State Route 89. The access route (Airport Road) is about three miles north of Markleeville. RV and tenting sites are available on a first come, first served basis. Even with the odd bear encounter during evening hours, Indian Creek Reservoir is a fine place to stay. Rangers have posted notices that food should be kept overnight in your car trunk. That's a fine idea!! Marshmallows could have been put in the trunk with the rest of the food.

Hope Valley Campground, operated by the U.S. Forest Service, is found on State Route 88, wet of the 88/89 junction. Half of the sites are available on a first come, first served basis.

Turtle Rock Campground, operated by Alpine County, is located just off Highway 89, near the turnoff to Indian Creek Reservoir. Tent and RV sites are available, along with a community building and tennis courts.

Where to Stay

East Fork Resort (916/694-2229)
12399 Hwy 89, PO Box 457, Markleeville, CA 96120
A rustic fishing resort, with cabins, campground, and full hookup RV spaces are available April thru October. An on-site store offers groceries, gasoline, fishing licenses, and supplies.

Grandma's House (916/694-2253)

14800 Hwy 89, PO Box 307, Markleeville, CA 96120
This creek-side cottage is found across from the General Store, with trout ponds nearby. The one bedroom suite has bath, kitchen, and a living room with sleeper-sofa. You can have the whole house to yourself (three bedrooms).

J Marklee Toll Station (916/694-2507)
Downtown Markleeville, PO Box 395, Markleeville, CA 96120
A standard motel with restaurant, on the main drag (Hwy 89).

Where to Eat

Alpine Hotel/Cutthroat Saloon (916/694-2150)
The historic Alpine Hotel is in the center of town, and was first built in 1862 in Silver Mountain City, then dismantled board by board and reassembled here in 1886. The Cutthroat Saloon is open year round, and the saloon ceiling is festooned with bras. A full restaurant is located behind the saloon, serving family meals.

The Deli (916/694-2505)
Located across the street from the Alpine Hotel, the Deli serves fresh sandwiches, salads, soup, Ice Cream,and beverages. Barbecues are staged during summer months.

Photos courtesy James Hoagland

James Hoagland, of the University of California - Davis,
visited Grover Hot Springs State Park, photographing the scenery and
some of the wildlife in the park. His interesting website also features links to other
sites with images. Thanks, Jim, for the use of your photos