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Grover Hot Springs
State Park
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Grover Hot Springs State Park, California
Travelwriter Fraser Bridges reports from fascinating
spots
off the beaten track. An inveterate hot springs
fan,
he's in the High Sierra, just south of Lake
Tahoe
in Markleeville, where the summer temperatures are cool,
the water is hot, and life is easy, except for infrequent bear
encounters.
Nearby places include South Lake Tahoe, Stateline
Nevada, and Reno.
With
California summer temperatures soaring into the
hundreds, and with my patience with
the turgid air getting thin, I suggested a
two-hour drive to the High Sierra, to try out
a hot spring park that I had often wanted to
sample. Having lived in Northern California
for eight years, I was ashamed of myself that
I had never been to Grover Hot Springs. Now,
that wasn't because I don't care about hot
springs. I've soaked in hot spring pools from
Arizona to Alaska, and care more about the benefits of hot
springs than I can express. It's just that
when something is almost in your back yard,
you tend to disregard it.
So
we took the plunge (literally) after taking
State Route 88, through the California
foothills, then up into the rocky ridges of
the Sierra Nevada. Highway 88 is one of the
great drives in the West, and my favorite in
California. The road climbs slowly through a grey (digger) pine and manzanita woodland, and then
into Ponderosa Pine country, before crossing
the Sierra divide above 8,000 feet, at Carson Pass.
From there, it's a half-hour drive through
the Hope Valley to Markleeville and Grover
Hot Springs State Park, through dryer sagebrush country on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada.
 Meadow
at Grover Hot Springs State Park
photos by James Hoagland
We
checked out several campgrounds in the Hope
Valley, so named by immigrant Mormons who had
difficulty getting through the Sierra on
their way to the California Gold Fields.
Faith and Charity valleys are nearby.
Hope
Valley Campground (Forest Service) sits
beside the West Fork of the Carson River,
below Carson Pass. Turtle ??? Campground
(Alpine County) is along Highway 89, half way
between the 88/89 junction and Markleeville.
We chose a more obscure campground, four
miles off the highway) in a BLM recreation
site on Indian Creek Reservoir. The landscape
was typical of the Eastern Sierra --
sagebrush and quite arid, with pine trees on
the higher slopes surrounding the
reservoir.
Campsites
here are easy to find, even on weekends.
There's a trailer and RV area, but we had out
tent and chose a fine 2-pad campsite
overlooking the lake. So sooner than we had
pitched the tent, we took off for the hot
springs, after reaching Markleeville.
This
is a tiny town, with a hundred or so
residents, and the seat of Alpine County --
the least populated county in the state. It
was a mining area in the early 1900s, and now
devotes itself to tourism -- at least during
the non-snow months. In the winter, most of
the roads to Markleeville are cut off. The
turnoff to the state park is in the center of
town, close to the visitor information
center, operated by the county and the Forest
Service.
The
park is at the end of the access road, with a
good campground for RVs and tenters near the
park entrance. Drive down the meadow and
you're at the pools.
 The
Hot Pool
The
entrance fee for the pool is $5 per adult.
There's no other fee to enter the park,
except for the daily fees to use the picnic
area and campgrounds. Hiking trails lead from
beyond the pool area. The hot water flows
down the hillside, into the large hot pool
(capacity 50).
Weather
on top of the Sierra is unpredictable, and
having driven through a small thunderstorm,
we weren't surprised to see the pool closed
when we arrived. We were joined in the wait
by a couple who had driven from Las Vegas --
a full-day's drive -- just to soak in the
pool, only to find it closed. But not for
long. The storm cloud passed quickly, and the
dozen people waiting began their soak. The
water is at 104 degrees, and a cold swimming
pool sits nearby for quick, cooling plunges.
The mineral water is devoid of sulphur,
making it a pleasant experience. Regulars
claim curative properties to the water, as
did the native Indians who first discovered
the springs.
That
was the first of our two visits to Grover Hot
Springs in July. We repeated the experience
two weeks later. The second trip was made in
much cooler weather, giving the pool area a
nicely-eerie atmosphere as steam rose from
the water and wafted over the meadow.
Grover
HS State Park is not a place for a quick
in-and-out soak and run.
Hot
Spring Creek crosses the lower meadow, fed by
the springs and the pool outlet.
The
park is blessed with wonderful scenery, with
pine-clad mountains surrounding the park on
three sides. Hikes lead into the hills,
including one that wanders to a very scenic
waterfall, which has more of a cascade early in
the Summer than in the Fall.
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Where
to Camp
The
campground in Grover Hot Springs State
Park offers trailer/RV and tent sites, in
a shaded setting. Reservations are avail;able
through Park Net.
I
also recommend the BLM recreation site at Indian Creek Reservoir, four miles
east of State Route 89. The access route
(Airport Road) is about three miles north of
Markleeville. RV and tenting sites are
available on a first come, first served
basis. Even with the odd bear encounter
during evening hours, Indian Creek Reservoir
is a fine place to stay. Rangers have posted
notices that food should be kept overnight in
your car trunk. That's a fine idea!!
Marshmallows could have been put in the trunk
with the rest of the food.
Hope
Valley Campground, operated by the U.S.
Forest Service, is found on State Route 88,
wet of the 88/89 junction. Half of the sites
are available on a first come, first served
basis.
Turtle
Rock Campground, operated by Alpine
County, is located just off Highway 89, near
the turnoff to Indian Creek Reservoir. Tent
and RV sites are available, along with a
community building and tennis courts.
Where
to Stay
East
Fork Resort (916/694-2229)
12399 Hwy 89, PO Box 457, Markleeville, CA
96120
A rustic fishing resort, with cabins,
campground, and full hookup RV spaces are
available April thru October. An on-site
store offers groceries, gasoline, fishing
licenses, and supplies.
Creekside Lodge - 530 694-2150 - 14800
Hwy 89, PO Box 307, Markleeville, CA
96120
The newly refurbished Creek Side Lodge located next to the creek, close to the excellent Wolf Creek restaurant. The seemingly rustic lodgings contain eleven well-equipped rooms with modern trappings including king and queen beds, two twins and a kitchenette.
J
Marklee Toll Station - 530.694.2507
Downtown Markleeville, PO Box 395,
Markleeville, CA 96120
A standard motel with restaurant, on the main
drag (Hwy 89).
Where
to Eat
Wolf Creek Restaurant Fine Food and Spirits - 530 694-2150
What used to be the historic Alpine Hotel is now Wolf Creek -- in the center of
town, and first built in 1862 in Silver
Mountain City, then dismantled board by board
and reassembled here in 1886. There is a bar (Cutthroat Saloon) and a large dining room serving very good food.
The
Deli (916/694-2505)
Located across the street from Wolf Creek, the Deli serves fresh sandwiches,
salads, soup, Ice Cream and beverages.
Barbecues are staged during summer
months.
Photos
courtesy James
Hoagland
James
Hoagland, of the University of California -
Davis,
visited Grover Hot Springs State Park,
photographing the scenery and
some of the wildlife in the park. His
interesting website also features links to
other
sites with images. Thanks, Jim, for the use
of your photos
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